Ikuchijima
Ikuchijima (生口島) is an island in the Seto Inland Sea of Japan. It's administered by the city of Onomichi, Hiroshima on the mainland.
Understand
Ikuchijima is known as "Lemon Island" due to its flourishing citrus industry. Like many of the islands here, it has a Mediterranean feel, and in The Inland Sea (1971), Donald Richie described Ikuchijima as "a smaller Sardinia, a greener Corsica".
During the Edo era, the island and its main town of 🌍 Setoda (瀬戸田) prospered as a trade hub both for the islands and traffic up and down the Japanese coast. The island has a darker past though: the characters 生口 mean "living mouth", an old Japanese word for "slave", and there is some historical evidence that the island's salt pans were once worked by slaves.
Get in
The island is on the Shimanami Kaido Bikeway, so many visitors arrive by bike. There are also hourly direct ferries from Onomichi to Setoda.
See and do
- 🌍 Kōsan-ji Temple. Built by an eccentric businessman to mourn the loss of his mother, this sprawling temple complex has concrete replicas of various famous Japanese buildings, earning it the nickname Nishi-Nikko (West Nikko). Other attractions include a grim replica of Buddhist hell and the dazzling white marble Miraishin no Oka (Hill of Eternal Hope).
- 🌍 Hirayama Ikuo Museum of Art (平山郁夫美術館). The home museum of celebrated modern painter Hirayama Ikuo (1930–2009), who explored themes like the Silk Road and the Hiroshima bombing through classical Japanese paintings.
- Shimagoto Art Museum, 17 public artworks scattered around the island
Sleep
Thanks to its location roughly at the halfway mark of the Shimanami Kaido bikeway, the town of Setoda has become a popular overnight stopover.
- 🌍 Azumi Setoda. The ultra-luxe Aman hotel group's first foray into ryokan, traditional Japanese inns. From ¥70,000.
Go next
There are two ways out: the west bridge to Omishima, or the east bridge to Innoshima.