Kurzeme

Kurzeme is the westernmost region of Latvia, along the Baltic Sea.

Cities
  • šŸŒ Liepāja ā€“ Named "the city of wind", and the southwestern most city of Latvia. Famous for its sandy beach, numerous music events, and the largest organ in the world. It features modern architecture and a long history along with the formerly secret Soviet military neighbourhood of Karosta (literally: War Port).
  • šŸŒ Ventspils ā€“ A modern and artistic sea resort city in the north-west part of Latvia, has many things to see, and is one of the tidiest places in the region. A long-stretching beach and recreational park provide everything for a relaxing holiday week or weekend. It gets its prosperity from the huge ice-free port, which is the busiest port in the Baltic states, and the oil transit business.
  • šŸŒ KuldÄ«ga ā€“ The capital of Duchy of Courland, Venice of Latvia, with unique and wooden architecture, red-tile roofs, bridges, cobbled streets, the widest widest waterfall ledge in Europe, and nearby the longest underground (sand) cave labyrinth in the Baltics.
  • šŸŒ Saldus ā€“ An important cultural, educational, business and trade centre that boasts a very active cultural life, with local musicians, poets, painters and artists. It is home to a music school (1946) and an art school (1984).
  • šŸŒ Talsi ā€“ A town on nine hills with old town, lake, cobbled streets, picturesque hills, walking trails, and the "Kokletajs" monument (Kokle player).
  • šŸŒ Aizpute ā€“ A town of medieval atmosphere with little irregular streets, old wooden buildings, small lakes and castle ruins
  • šŸŒ Roja ā€“ A town with a port and some sights (see below).
  • šŸŒ Pāvilosta ā€“ A small fishing village with nice beach, camping and museum.

Other destinations

Nature and national parks

Understand

The main attraction of this region is the Baltic Sea coast, an end of the world landscape beaten by the winds. The coastal roads allow to appreciate its wonderful landscapes.

During the period of Soviet occupation the coastline was a restricted military area, because it was easy to leave the country on a boat. One could reach Pelēkā kāpa if one didn't leave footprints on the sand. To get around this problem locals wore tin cans under their shoes.

Until 100 years ago the northern coast was populated with a small autochthonous nation called Livonians who spoke the Livonian language, but they were assimilated into the Latvian nation during the 20th century. Many Latvian cities' names have Livonian etymology. The last native speaker of Livonian died in 2013; there are about 40 reported speakers and 210 having reported some knowledge of the language. A traveller may find some remnants of their houses in villages around Mazirbe.

Get around

Itineraries
  • Kurzeme coastline: RÄ«ga ā€“ Engure ā€“ Roja ā€“ Kolka ā€“ Ventspils ā€“ JÅ«rkalne ā€“ Pāvilosta ā€“ Liepāja ā€“ NÄ«ca. A 400 km route along the Baltic seashore, abundant in natural and cultural heritage, gives an opportunity to learn how locals live and rest at the sea. Apart from many ancient fishermen villages nestled along the seashore, two beautiful cities: Ventspils and Liepāja ā€” are worth visiting.
  • Romantic small towns of Kurzeme: RÄ«ga ā€“ Saldus ā€“ Skrunda ā€“ Aizpute ā€“ Pāvilosta ā€“ Alsunga ā€“ KuldÄ«ga ā€“ Sabile ā€“ Kandava ā€“ Tukums ā€“ RÄ«ga. One of the most picturesque routes in Kurzeme, as it offers to see the beautiful nature of Kurzeme, manors, castles and churches surrounded by centuries old trees, ancient Aizpute with its romantic wooden buildings, the sweetest town in Latvia ā€“ Saldus, the rich in traditions Suiti region in Alsunga, the old capital of Kurzeme ā€“ Kuldiga, and the ancient Abava valley rich in landscapes and cultural heritage.
  • The Green Circle of Northern Kurzeme: RÄ«ga ā€“ Talsi ā€“ Dundaga ā€“ Pāce ā€“ Ance ā€“ Ventspils ā€“ Ugāle ā€“ Tukums ā€“ RÄ«ga. Northern Kurzeme offers natural diversity ā€“ listen to bird songs at Lake Kanieris and Engure, watch the blue cows and wild horses, enjoy the sunrise and the sunset and watch the waves of two seas meet at Cape Kolka etc.

See
  • šŸŒ Irbene Radio Telescope / Ventspils International Radio Astronomy Centre (Irbenes radioteleskops / Ventspils Starptautiskais Radioastronomijas Centrs), Irbene (1.5 km from the Livonian Coast highway). The biggest of northern Europe and the world's eighth-largest radio telescope. Before reaching the telescope, one will pass by an former Soviet and now abandoned ghost town, which allows for some distinct pictures. (updated Oct 2017)

Nature

Culture and traditions

Do

Eat
  • Sklandrausis (or sklandu rausis) is a traditional dish in Latvian cuisine which has a Livonian origin; it's a sweet pie, made of rye dough and filled with potato and carrot paste and seasoned with a caraway. It's widespread in Kurzeme.
  • Many fish dishes
  • biguzis (layered rye bread dessert)
  • bukstiņputra (pearl barley or fine-ground barley with lard and boiled potato)
  • šŸŒ Druva ice-cream (Druvas saldējums), KuldÄ«gas Å”oseja 4, Druva, Saldus pagasts, Saldus novads, LV-3862, ā˜ +371 293 976 03, . 09:00-20:00. Try some ice-cream with local berries: quince (cidonijas), sea buckthorn (smiltsērkŔķu), gooseberries (ērkŔķogu) or even with chicory (cigoriņu). Extremely popular among the locals, hence such long working hours. Be sure to take from the scooping container instead of the packaged version, because they make this ice-cream in house. ~ā‚¬0.5 per ball. (updated Aug 2020)
  • šŸŒ Bakery and bistro ĶipÄ«tis, Selgas iela 4, Roja (right next to the Roja Lutheran Basilica), ā˜ +371 26 373 806, . The place doesn't look like you would ever dare to eat there. But in reality the food is tasty and cheap, and many locals frequent this place; there are also an exhibition of old Soviet TV and radio devices. One should definitely try their delicious sweet carrot pie, or rhubarb pie. It is possible to order a big chunk of pie the day before driving there. (updated Aug 2020)

Livonian heritage
  • For Livonians, fish represented the main foods, particularly flounders and Baltic herring (boiled, baked, salted, dried or smoked).
  • During the 19th and 20th centuries, Livonians also ate porridge (rok), sour porridge (appƵnrok) made from wheat flour and milk. Fermented milk was then added to the hot porridge. The porridge was eaten when it was cold and soured.
  • No-yeast buns stuffed with potatoes, carrots and cream (sÅ«rkakÅ«d) were popular. These were baked for celebrations and remain popular today
  • White sausages made of groats (sÅ«rmƵd mƵka) were an ancient food. The sausages did not involve blood, but they were stuffed into cattle intestines with boiled groats, bacon and onions.
  • Rye bread (riggi lēba) was baked on Saturday and eaten frugally.

Traditional Livonian foods today can be found at the ÅŖÅ”i campsite in Kolka and the StÅ«rÄ«Å”i-Branki guesthouse in Mazirbe. Some of the foods are also served in Dundaga Castle.

Festivals
  • Home Cafe Days (Mājas kafejnÄ«cu dienas), Dundagas pagasts, Kolkas pagasts. June 1-2. Some local farms and cafes offer tasting some local cuisine around Kolka and Dundaga. 

Tours

Sleep

In the following a list of various accommodation options in the region worth mentioning and outside of the above covered cities, towns, and parks:

  • šŸŒ Rindas Skola, Rinda (Walk from the coastal "highway" by the abandoned soviet town and the impressive and largest Radio Telescope of Northern Europe.), ā˜ +371 29365455, +371 29186127, . Not as great as the online ratings suggest, but decent and good value for money. Double bed rooms with shared bathroom. Their main business is renting canoes and giving tours. 2nd email address. ā‚¬10 per person (1ā€“4 people). (updated Oct 2017)
  • šŸŒ "ĶipÄ«tis" hostel (Hostelis ĶipÄ«tis), Selgas iela 4, Roja (right next to the Roja Lutheran Basilica), ā˜ +371 26373806, . A budget accommodation good for a night, but no luxury to be expected. Dorm from ā‚¬12. (updated Aug 2020)
  • šŸŒ Veccepli kempings, Veccepļi, ā˜ +371 29256740. A family vacation place, with carousel and other amenities for kids. Specialised in providing fishing boat and supporting gear. The interior of the accommodation is minimalistic, and a small shop is a little more than 2 km away. Double from ā‚¬15. (updated Oct 2017)
  • šŸŒ Ivandes Muiza, Skolas nams, ÄŖvande, ā˜ +371 29168626. Incredible surrounding (2 monuments, 2 parks, etc.) and palace-like accommodation. Even though a little worn. But who would argue at this price. Dorm from ā‚¬11. (updated Oct 2017)

Go next
  • Riga region ā€“ Starting or finishing point for most people coming to Latvia, and also home to numerous sights worth visiting, like Riga and its old city, the holiday and sea resort town of JÅ«rmala, Sigulda and its castles, as well as The Great Ķemeri Moorland.
  • Zemgale ā€“ Flattest region in Latvia, and famous for the neighbouring and historically related Jelgava Palace and Rundāle Palace, near Jelgava and Bauska, respectively.



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