New Orleans/Faubourg Marigny

It has the air of what the French Quarter was a generation or two ago before there was so much tourist development. It has a few small hotels and many bed-and-breakfasts, as well as a number of good restaurants, coffee shops, and music venues. Part of the city's old high ground, it fortunately escaped the worst of the post-Katrina disaster.

Architecturally, the Marigny is known for its many styles of Creole cottages, most of which date to the 19th century. Its "heart" is Washington Square Park (bounded by Frenchmen Street, Royal Street, Dauphine Street, and Elysian Fields Avenue). Frenchmen Street is the main nightlife district, with half a dozen live music clubs and just as many restaurants in four short blocks.

At Mardi Gras, the Marigny is one of the city's hidden hot spots, popular with locals who enjoy partying in the streets without the drunken frat-boy atmosphere of Bourbon Street. Crowds gather at the corner of Royal and Kerlerec (outside the R-Bar), as well as at the intersection of Royal and Franklin. Elaborate costumes are the order of the day, along with brass bands and many drummers. Two weeks before Mardi Gras, the Marigny is also the starting place for the Krewe du Vieux, a satirical, raunchy parade in 19th-century Carnival style, complete with small floats drawn by krewe members and mules.

Known for its bohemian atmosphere and low rents (though the latter is changing), the Marigny is home to many artists and musicians, as well as a sizable gay and lesbian population. Among its notable residents are chef Paul Prudhomme, painter James Michalopoulas, and actors Harry Shearer and Jennifer Coolidge, who can be seen around town when they're not working in L.A. Local writers include New Orleans mystery writers Julie Smith and J.M. Redmann, as well as Andrei Codrescu, Michael Swindle, and Kevin Allman.

• 🌍 Cafe Istanbul, 2372 St Claude Ave (at St. Roch), ☏ +1 504 975-0286. Named after a legendary Frenchmen Street venue of a generation ago, the new Cafe Istanbul is theater space with a bar in the New Orleans Healing Center, a renovated old warehouse building now a community center. Live theater, music, dance, film, and other performances. 

• 🌍 Louisiana Music Factory, 421 Frenchmen St (at Decatur St), ☏ +1 504 586-1094. Daily 11AM-8PM. Specializes in local music, with a wide selection new and used CDs, plus vintage vinyl upstairs. Local musicians often play free sets here for promotion when they come out with a new record. The staff here usually know their stuff and can make good recommendations. 
• 🌍 Scott Edwards Photography Studio & Gallery, 2109 Decatur St (at Frenchmen St), ☏ +1 504 610-0581. Tu-Th noon-8PM, F Sa noon-midnight. A gallery specializing in regional and New Orleans based Photography. 
• 🌍 Island of Salvation Botanica, 2372 St Claude Ave, Suite 100 (at St Roch St), ☏ +1 504 948-9961, Sis_isochron@yahoo.com. Tu-Sa 10AM-5PM. A real voodoo supply store. Moved from their old ramshackle building in the Bywater into the new "Healing Center" building in 2011. 

Frenchmen Street is in the Faubourg Marigny neighborhood just below the lower edge of the Quarter. A 4 block stretch of bars, restaurants, and coffee shops mixed with live music venues make it one of the city's most hip places, catering more to locals than tourists (though tourists are certainly welcome, and welcomed).

On any given night, one might find modern jazz, swinging traditional jazz, Latin American style music, rockabilly, and more within this small area. Except for Buffa's, all the below venues are all either on this stretch of Frenchmen Street or just around the corner from it on Esplanade Avenue.

The best way to enjoy Frenchmen (particularly on weekends) is to walk the street with a drink in hand, listening to the music in each club. Many don't have cover charges, but most require at least a one-drink minimum to enter and listen to music. Whenever the music is enjoyable, don't forget to put some cash in the band's tip jar.

• 🌍 Apple Barrel, 609 Frenchmen St, ☏ +1 504 949-9399. Sometimes has live music too. Local characters, low prices, no attitude. 
• 🌍 AllWays, 2240 St Claude Ave. Lounge in the front, small theater in the back. The hub of fringe theater, plays, bands, and variety shows often. Very friendly and comfortable for all. 
• 🌍 d.b.a., 618 Frenchmen St. New York style bar on Frenchmen, if you need a bit of sophistication when you drink. Great selection of beers, and frequent live music. 
• 🌍 Dragon's Den, 435 Esplanade Ave (above Mojitos), ☏ +1 504 949-1750. A charmingly dilapidated, well-hidden club (go down the building's side alley, then up the stairs to your left), with a balcony on Esplanade and an opium-den feel inside. Live music, occasional poetry slams, serves food. 
• 🌍 Friendly Bar, 2301 Chartres St (at Marigny St). Gay neighborhood bar where locals gather to hang out in a no-pressure atmosphere. 
• 🌍 Iggy's, 1943 N Rampart St (at Touro). Neighborhood bar with a lot of neighborhood characters; very friendly for all. Frequently serves food. 
• 🌍 The John, 2040 Burgundy St (at Frenchmen St). Relaxed neighborhood hangout with rockabilly, country, and punk on the jukebox. Named for the gold-painted toilet seats that serve as stools at the tables. With inexpensive stiff drinks served up in Mason jars, this spot for locals offers one of the best deals on Frenchmen St. 
• 🌍 Mimi's in the Marigny, 2601 Royal St (at Franklin Ave). The toniest bar in the Marigny (but hardly pretentious), with billiards, Galaga, occasional live music, and tapas served from the restaurant upstairs. Good selection of beers and specialty drinks. Hip Hop and Funk DJs Friday and Saturday nights. Lots of singles on the weekends. 
• 🌍 Phoenix, 941 Elysian Fields Ave (at N Rampart St). 24 hours. Gay neighborhood bar by day, catering to the leather crowd at night. Also the official United Cab stand for catching rides back into the French Quarter. 
• 🌍 R-Bar, 1431 Royal St (at Kerlerec St). Hip but laid-back hangout that's comfortable by day and happening at night; great jukebox. 

• 🌍 Aaron Ingram Haus, 1012 Elysian Fields Ave, ☏ +1 504 949-3110. One and two bedroom suites six blocks from Bourbon Street. 
• 🌍 Auld Sweet Olive Bed and Breakfast, 2460 N Rampart St, ☏ +1 504 947-4332. Historic home with six rooms, each with private bath. Hand painted wall treatments, attractive gardens. 
• 🌍 B&W Courtyards, 2425 Chartres St (between Mandeville and Spain Sts), toll-free: +1-800-585-5731. Three 19th century buildings connected by lush courtyards. Private baths. Architectural award winner. 
• 🌍 1870 Banana Courtyard B&B, 1422 N Rampart St (between Esplanade Ave and Kerlerec St), ☏ +1 504 947-4475, toll-free: +1-800-842-4748. Check-in: 3PM, check-out: 11AM. In 1800s former elite bordello. B&B now. Balcony rooms with a view or budget rooms, each w/different theme. Lagniappe: free soft drinks, bottled water, generous continental breakfast. Tropical courtyard with hammock, verandah with porch swing. Wi-Fi. New fangled stuff, ensuite like: private bathrooms, cable TV, phone, heat and A/C. Gated parking lot. $79-$165. 
• 🌍 The Burgundy Bed and Breakfast, 2513 Burgundy St, ☏ +1 504 942-1463, toll-free: +1-800-970-2153. Gay owned and operated, affordable rates. 
• 🌍 Chez Nous Guest House, 825 Touro St, ☏ +1 504 432-7072. One and two bedroom private suites. 
• 🌍 Chez Palmiers Bed & Breakfast, 1744 N Rampart St, ☏ +1 504 729-8686, toll-free: +1-877-233-9449. 
• 🌍 The Claiborne Mansion, 2111 Dauphine St, ☏ +1 504 949-7327. An outstanding 19th century mansion and a wonderful hostess, Cleo. . 
• 🌍 Creole Inn, 2471 Dauphine St, ☏ +1 504 312-2949. A cozy and affordable B&B. 
• 🌍 Crescent City Guest House, 612 Marigny St, ☏ +1 504 944-8722. Check-in: 4PM, check-out: 11AM. 4 Guest rooms each with private bathrooms. All taxes, maid service and continental breakfast included. Free off-street parking and WiFi. $79-$169. 
• 🌍 Elysian Fields Inn, 930 Elysian Fields Ave, ☏ +1 504 948-9420, toll-free: +1-866-948-9420. Hosts, Leigh and Jim are very knowledgeable of the NOLA music scene. Has secure covered parking. 
• 🌍 The Frenchmen Hotel, 417 Frenchmen St, ☏ +1 504 948-2166. 
• 🌍 La Dauphine, Residence des Artistes, 2316 Dauphine St. A Bohemian, laid-back, unpretentious, 2 room 1896 guest house for the budget-minded traveler- with a 3-night minimum; private baths, free Internet. Advance reservations required. Ray & Kim are the warm and friendly hosts. 
• 🌍 La Maison Marigny Bed and Breakfast, 1421 Bourbon St. One of Travel & Leisure Magazine's TOP TEN B&Bs. 
• 🌍 Maison DuBois Bed and Breakfast, 1419 Dauphine St (between Esplanade Ave and Kerlerec St), toll-free: +1-866-948-1619, fax: +1 504 944-1946. Bed and breakfast. 
• 🌍 Marigny Manor House, 2125 N Rampart St (between Frenchmen St and Elysian Fields Ave), ☏ +1 504 943-7826. Check-in: 4PM, check-out: noon. 1840s Grand Greek Revival home. 
• 🌍 Old Town Inn, 1001 Marigny St (one bright yellow building you shouldn't miss, across the street from the Phoenix and Cowpokes), ☏ +1 504 949-5815. Cool historic inn, three separate buildings, dating from the 1800s. 
• 🌍 Pierre Coulon Guest House, 714 Spain St, ☏ +1 504 943-6692, toll-free: +1-866-328-1497. Comfortable small apartment. 
• 🌍 River House, 625 Marigny St, toll-free: +1-866-945-8142. Check-in: 2PM. A lovingly-restored antebellum mansion with three unique apartments, each like no other. 
• 🌍 Royal Street Courtyard Bed & Breakfast, 2438 Royal St, ☏ +1 504 943-6818. 
• 🌍 Royal Street Inn B&B, 1431 Royal St (at Kerlerec St), ☏ +1 504 449-5535. "B&B" here may stand for "Bed and Beverage", as this is upstairs from the R-Bar. 
• 🌍 Suite Jazz, 526 Frenchmen St. Circa 1861, the building has typical high ceilings, chandeliers, hardwood floors, Cable TV, WIFI Internet Access, Central Air, a fully stocked kitchen and more! A queen sleigh bed, travertine tiled shower & original artwork by fabulous artists. Windows have added sound protection. Sylvia is one of New Orleans' best ambassadors and a great concierge/hostess/tour guide. 
• 🌍 Sunburst Inn, 819 Mandeville St, ☏ +1 504 947-1799. Historic Victorian house with one and two bedroom suites with private bath. A short walk to French Quarter. Suites has lots of nice ammenties, located in quite charming neighborhood. 
• 🌍 Lions Inn Bed and Breakfast, 2517 Chartres St, ☏ +1 504 945 2339, toll-free: +1 800 485 6846, info@lionsinn.com. Features ten non-smoking guest rooms. Most have private baths while some share a bath. All have twin, king, and queen-sized beds. Among its most appealing features is a garden with swimming pool and Jacuzzi hot tub. (updated Dec 2020)
• 🌍 River House New Orleans, 625 Marigny St (near Washington Square park), ☏ +1 504 616 0745, info@riverhouseneworleans.com. Check-in: 3:00PM, check-out: 11:00AM. Three-story antebellum guest house with separate apartments on each floor. Amenities include complementary Wi-Fi and a swimming pool. Rates are lower during the summer (June 1-August 31) and higher during special events (Mardi Gras, French Quarter Fest, New Orleans Jazz & Heritage Festival, Halloween, and New Years Eve). All payments must go through Airbnb or VRBO. A 2-night minimum stay is required. $395/night double occupancy, includes all taxes. (updated Dec 2020)

Cafe Rose Nicaud, Marigny Perks, and the Orange Couch listed above all offer coffeeshop style free Wi-Fi.

Like with many urban neighborhoods, there have been problems with crime in Marigny and in the nearby Bywater neighborhood. The Frenchmen Street corridor with most music venues and restaurants is generally safe. Cabs are plentiful and are always a good idea if you're traveling to areas with less "foot traffic."

The lower part of the French Quarter is adjacent to the Faubourg Marigny just upriver. The Bywater serves as the Marigny's downriver neighbor, with a similar vibe but even less visited by out-of-towners. The 7th and 8th Ward neighborhoods begin just back across St. Claude -- while much of this section is still struggling 6 years after the Katrina disaster, it also has some attractive venues and sights just a short distance from Marigny. Drive, bike, or take the bus back on beautiful Esplanade Avenue toward City Park (located in Mid-City New Orleans) where you can visit NOMA museum and the free admission, not-to-be missed, Sculpture Garden; alternatively you can also get there by catching the Riverfront Streetcar just beyond the floodwall at the foot of Esplanade Avenue- this will take you lengthwise through the French Quarter along the Mississippi, then back along Canal Street.